Baja Entry 4

1/15/09 9:36AM Orchard Village, open-air Casa 8

No tengo nada que declarar. (I have nothing to declare.)

Estoy cansada, mejor me voy ami casa. (I'm tired, I'd better go home.)

We left at a good time yesterday, around 10:15AM or so. I drove Mingo's truck the entire day. The roads are much narrower here than in the US, but his truck is wide and at first I was uncomfortable driving it--especially around curves (Curvas Peligroso). However, following Carl's inquiry via walkie talkie, "Is your parking brake on?" I stepped it up and drove the damn thing. We stopped in Guerrero Negro (warlike black person, which Courtney exclaimed will be "the name of my first child!") for supplies. The town had many hotels, restaurants, and mercados. We got more food and filled up on petrol, although the Mexican manning the Pemex station was disputing payment and Carl kept calculating the exchange rate using Lemur's iPhone and pointing at the phone. That sorted itself out and we moved on to purchase tarps and finally depart Guerrero Negro, while Courtney verbally slapped Domingo for buying her tent a tarp--"I don't need that shit and I'm not paying for it!"). Carl's fun fact , "I've never eaten at a restaurant in this town that I liked," crackled over the radios as we drove out of town. Domingo and Courtney fell asleep and I took the iPod over, creating a Dodos and Postal Service playlist. I admit that I felt some tears roll down my face as I listened to Benjamin Gibbard sing. This thought occurred in my head: this music reminds me of Ruth. It hurts to listen to, but I don't want to listen to anything else. We'd traveled nearly 1,000 miles at this point, but I couldn't escape her. It's as if I carry her with me wherever I go. Sigh.

But back to the trip--we crossed the border into Baja California Sur and set our watches forward an hour (Blackness set Mingo's for him when we stopped later). Actually that preceeded Guerrero Negro, but no bother. Next stop was San Ignacio. It's an oasis in the desert. Lots of palm trees and then, out of nowhere, a river was rolling through there. It was like a paradise. The town square was gorgeous, with a beautiful mission that we admired inside and out. Courtney remarked, "Wouldn't it be amazing to get married in this church, then come outside and have your reception out in the town square?" We noted the stage in the square, which was surrounded along the perimeter by trees that shaded benches for seating. Oh, and an added bonus: Mingo and Blackness used a Banos for 5 pesos where the person in charge had trained his dog to lead you into the bathrooms. However, when Court and I tried to use it they had closed up shop for a siesta. Apparently around 3PM or so everything shuts down in San Ignacio.

After eating ham and cheese sandwiches that Carl made on the tailgate of Mingo's truck, we voayaged on to Santa Rosalia. We cruised through the town there--very nice and not Americanized like Ensenada. It used to be a copper/ore mining town. They had huge industrial buildings that have long since gone out of use, but which are now a Museo. Also, there is church there (Inglesia Santa Barbara) that was designed by Gustav Eiffel. Carl said it was built to be taken somewhere in Africa, but the ship came under siege so it was brought and placed in Santa Rosalia. We drove another 40-50 km and arrived at our destino: Mulege. We cruised through the twon, which had many shops, stores, restaurants, and internet cafes (be still Blackness' heart). We drove to where we intended to set up our camp, a place titled "Orchard Village." However, it no longer was utilized for RV and tent camping. Instead, they had homes built and many sold to ex-pats. We ended up viewing one for rent. It was essentially open air; no walls or enclosed rooms, excepting the bathroom and bedrooms. Also, it had 3 double beds (por quatro hombres y dos mujeres-perfecto!). We decided to rent it for the night--at $78 US you can't pass it up! And it was Courtney's birthday after all.

Que se puede hacer en las noches? (What's there to do in the evenings?)
Te invito una copa? (Would you like a drink?)

Blackness, Lemur, and I drove back into town for a beer and tequila run, then returned to initiate the evening's festivities. Carl mixed up some guacomole, which lasted about 10 segundos with this bunch. Mingo blended some yummy vodka and rum drinks (I like the bartender...). We cracked open Tecates, listened to Buena Vista Social Club and Mos Def & Talib Kweli. All of us were a bit worn out after the noche loca last night, so after a delicious meal of baked potatoes, Carne Asada, and tortillas, all were looking a bit cansado. Then Captain Carl led us on a ridiculously long walk to the Sea of Cortez, during which we walked next to an estuary with 100s of jumping fish, mangy perros, and an American boy playing Solitaire on a computer inside the comforts of his casa. Carl stated that there's mostly ex-pats that own the homes in the area outside of Mulege. Anyways, we finally reached the water and the moon, with its reflection on water lapping up on the rocky shore, was quite breathtaking. We turned back to make our way back to the casa. Upon our return, I believe Mingo said it best, "Now I'm tired and sober and just want to sleep." Carl and Domingo retired soon thereafter. I cracked open another Tecate, but couldn't finish it (party foul) and opted to retire to bed as well. Courtney was disappointed by this, as she fought to keep her own eyes open--not wanting to succumb to fatigue until her birthday was officially over.

Hoy esta soleado y calido. (Today it's sunny and warm)
Me siento muy bien! (I feel fantastic!)

We all slept in the next morning, well except Blackness, who woke up and went wlaking to Mulege in search of technology. Good news though: it seems that our party has decided to remain at the pimp ass casa another night. Woohoo!