Baja Entry 4

1/15/09 9:36AM Orchard Village, open-air Casa 8

No tengo nada que declarar. (I have nothing to declare.)

Estoy cansada, mejor me voy ami casa. (I'm tired, I'd better go home.)

We left at a good time yesterday, around 10:15AM or so. I drove Mingo's truck the entire day. The roads are much narrower here than in the US, but his truck is wide and at first I was uncomfortable driving it--especially around curves (Curvas Peligroso). However, following Carl's inquiry via walkie talkie, "Is your parking brake on?" I stepped it up and drove the damn thing. We stopped in Guerrero Negro (warlike black person, which Courtney exclaimed will be "the name of my first child!") for supplies. The town had many hotels, restaurants, and mercados. We got more food and filled up on petrol, although the Mexican manning the Pemex station was disputing payment and Carl kept calculating the exchange rate using Lemur's iPhone and pointing at the phone. That sorted itself out and we moved on to purchase tarps and finally depart Guerrero Negro, while Courtney verbally slapped Domingo for buying her tent a tarp--"I don't need that shit and I'm not paying for it!"). Carl's fun fact , "I've never eaten at a restaurant in this town that I liked," crackled over the radios as we drove out of town. Domingo and Courtney fell asleep and I took the iPod over, creating a Dodos and Postal Service playlist. I admit that I felt some tears roll down my face as I listened to Benjamin Gibbard sing. This thought occurred in my head: this music reminds me of Ruth. It hurts to listen to, but I don't want to listen to anything else. We'd traveled nearly 1,000 miles at this point, but I couldn't escape her. It's as if I carry her with me wherever I go. Sigh.

But back to the trip--we crossed the border into Baja California Sur and set our watches forward an hour (Blackness set Mingo's for him when we stopped later). Actually that preceeded Guerrero Negro, but no bother. Next stop was San Ignacio. It's an oasis in the desert. Lots of palm trees and then, out of nowhere, a river was rolling through there. It was like a paradise. The town square was gorgeous, with a beautiful mission that we admired inside and out. Courtney remarked, "Wouldn't it be amazing to get married in this church, then come outside and have your reception out in the town square?" We noted the stage in the square, which was surrounded along the perimeter by trees that shaded benches for seating. Oh, and an added bonus: Mingo and Blackness used a Banos for 5 pesos where the person in charge had trained his dog to lead you into the bathrooms. However, when Court and I tried to use it they had closed up shop for a siesta. Apparently around 3PM or so everything shuts down in San Ignacio.

After eating ham and cheese sandwiches that Carl made on the tailgate of Mingo's truck, we voayaged on to Santa Rosalia. We cruised through the town there--very nice and not Americanized like Ensenada. It used to be a copper/ore mining town. They had huge industrial buildings that have long since gone out of use, but which are now a Museo. Also, there is church there (Inglesia Santa Barbara) that was designed by Gustav Eiffel. Carl said it was built to be taken somewhere in Africa, but the ship came under siege so it was brought and placed in Santa Rosalia. We drove another 40-50 km and arrived at our destino: Mulege. We cruised through the twon, which had many shops, stores, restaurants, and internet cafes (be still Blackness' heart). We drove to where we intended to set up our camp, a place titled "Orchard Village." However, it no longer was utilized for RV and tent camping. Instead, they had homes built and many sold to ex-pats. We ended up viewing one for rent. It was essentially open air; no walls or enclosed rooms, excepting the bathroom and bedrooms. Also, it had 3 double beds (por quatro hombres y dos mujeres-perfecto!). We decided to rent it for the night--at $78 US you can't pass it up! And it was Courtney's birthday after all.

Que se puede hacer en las noches? (What's there to do in the evenings?)
Te invito una copa? (Would you like a drink?)

Blackness, Lemur, and I drove back into town for a beer and tequila run, then returned to initiate the evening's festivities. Carl mixed up some guacomole, which lasted about 10 segundos with this bunch. Mingo blended some yummy vodka and rum drinks (I like the bartender...). We cracked open Tecates, listened to Buena Vista Social Club and Mos Def & Talib Kweli. All of us were a bit worn out after the noche loca last night, so after a delicious meal of baked potatoes, Carne Asada, and tortillas, all were looking a bit cansado. Then Captain Carl led us on a ridiculously long walk to the Sea of Cortez, during which we walked next to an estuary with 100s of jumping fish, mangy perros, and an American boy playing Solitaire on a computer inside the comforts of his casa. Carl stated that there's mostly ex-pats that own the homes in the area outside of Mulege. Anyways, we finally reached the water and the moon, with its reflection on water lapping up on the rocky shore, was quite breathtaking. We turned back to make our way back to the casa. Upon our return, I believe Mingo said it best, "Now I'm tired and sober and just want to sleep." Carl and Domingo retired soon thereafter. I cracked open another Tecate, but couldn't finish it (party foul) and opted to retire to bed as well. Courtney was disappointed by this, as she fought to keep her own eyes open--not wanting to succumb to fatigue until her birthday was officially over.

Hoy esta soleado y calido. (Today it's sunny and warm)
Me siento muy bien! (I feel fantastic!)

We all slept in the next morning, well except Blackness, who woke up and went wlaking to Mulege in search of technology. Good news though: it seems that our party has decided to remain at the pimp ass casa another night. Woohoo!

Baja Entry 3

1/14/09 8:40AM Beach in Santa Rosallilita [Courtney's Birthday!]

Me lo estoy pasando muy bien. (This is hitting the spot.)

Se me esta subiendo mucho. (I'm feeling drunk.)

After a night of general shenanigans, we are all up again and breaking down camp. Court and I woke up at around 7AM, changed clothes, bathed with babywipes, re-applied deodorant, took shits in the sand, and walked over some bluffs to discover another beach. We scaled down some rocks, rocks the color of my plum New Balance shorts, to find beautiful fish swimming in the ocean. Bright orange ones. We stayed down near the edge of the rocks, where the waves were crashing up and splashing water on our legs. Then we walked back to the camp to find everyone awake and generally in good spirits post-merrymaking last night.

Yesterday was spent with 4 hours of desert/inland driving. Lots of interesting scenery, like giant mountains of rocks piled high and a dried up lakebed (Lake Champala?) that we took pictures at and looked like some kind of motley rock band shooting an album cover. Havoc ensued when driving and attempting to identify, through general consensus via walkie talkies, where to set up camp for the night. At one point Carl stopped speaking to us on the radios and after about a 5-minute silence, due to his anger with us, it was decided that we'd camp in Santa Rosallilita, approximately 15 kilometers off the main highway. We pulled into the village to see beautiful coastlines and huts and shacks housing small children, women cooking, and fisherman's rubbers hanging on trees in front of their homes. Later the next morning, Carl would comment that if this beach was in the US it would be cheek-to-jowel covered with condos and resorts. We purchased some smokes for 32 pesos each pack and some more avocados (can't ever have enough), then cherry-picked scrapwood from a pile we saw on the side of the road. Carefully plucking the scraps, so as to avoid rusty nails, Court, Blackness, Mingo, and I sang our own versions of songs we'd been listening to and yelled at one another just for the fun of it. We were mobbing around the beach in the bed of the truck, Courtney pushing the truck up to 70 mph as we drove there and back for the sundries and the wood. We returned with our bounty and ate an appetizer of Carne Asada, tomatoes, peppers, and Tapatio (Tap that Tio!) rolled in warm tortillas. Delicious. Carl also cooked up some corn and grilled chicken. We were fed and happy and got drunk discussing random topics. At some point we were talking about rugby and rugby related matters pertaining to the Fog, and Domingo kept invoking his opinions and Carl kept repeating, "Stop yelling at me," even though Domingo was speaking at a conversational level. Then I think Carl got fed up with all of us and retired to the tent. Meanwhile we enjoyed being foolish on the beach, tackling Lemur, etc. Highlight: Meandering on the beach and watching the moon rise. Beautiful. OK, cooking up breakast now and then we embark on nuestro destino final: Mulege!

Baja Entries: An Explanation

So I went on a road trip through Baja California and Baja California Sur. Along the trip I journaled about what happened, what I saw, and the silliness that ensued. I probably could have written much more, but often I was hungover or rushed for time if I wanted to get a plate of hot food before the others ate my share. I'm going to present my journal entries with as little editting as possible, only a few grammatical tweaks here and there and paraphrasing on occasion. I want the spirit of the entries to be as chaotic and free-flowing as the thoughts were in my head when I initially penned them on paper.

Also, there are random Mexican-Spanish phrases inserted throughout the entries. These were actually what I wrote in the journal as I was recording random thoughts. When Lemur and I went to meet everyone on the morning of our departure, we took the Cayenne to the carwash before loading up the vehicles. There happened to be a Lonely Planet display and I purchased a pocket sized "Mexican-Spanish" dictionary, strictly for amusement. The phrase I saw that sealed the deal on the purchase (in the Social section, under the heading "Sex") a series of phrases that went as follows:

I can't get it up-sorry. (Lo siento, no se me para)

Don't worry, I'll do it myself. (No te preocupes, yo lo hago)

It helps to have a sense of humour. (Ayuda tener sentido del humor)

Also, I liked this one: (in the Practical section, under the heading "Hairdressing")

I should never have let you near me! (No deberia haberme cortado con usted!)

Anyways, there are times when the entries seem to be disjointed or nonsensical, but I believe it only enhances its authenticity. Divertirse! (Enjoy!)

Baja Entry 2

1/13/09 5:35PM Beach in Santa Rosallilita (on the Pacific Ocean)

Que esta nuestro destino? (What is our destination?)

Donde esta mas cercana? (Where's the nearest campsite?)

We've landed on the beach. Yesterday was spent with the "systema loca" of securing proper travel documents for our travels in Baja. ("Systema loca" is a term another traveler, whom we ran into at the government office and then the bank to pay the fee, said when she was trying to help me communicate with the bank teller.) We had a hearty breakfast at Alfonso's in Ensenada, where Alfonso actually recognized Carl from previous visits, then walked back and forth and back again between the Mexican government office to HSBC Banco, due to some ridiculousness charged when one does not secure proper docs at the border.

In any case, once we got on our way, we stopped to load up on food for the next few days. This was the first of many grocery trips in which at least half the time is spent trying to make sure we are getting everything on the list and the other half is spent telling Domingo to put down the gigante marshmallows or listening to Carl say, "Why the fuck did you get that? That was in our side of the store. Get the shit on the side you were supposed to shop in!"

We spent 30 minutes or so at a stop about 2 hours later, eating pollo tacos at a roadside stand. Finally stopped, in the dark no less, at Celito Lindo (to be honest that could just be generic for "Hotel" but I just record what I see on the signs). We set up camp after mucho mumbles and grumbles due to tent difficulties (see: Carl smacking Domingo). Funny moment: realizing that the tent loaned to Courtney by Octo-Chris was, indeed, a solo tent. No worries though, she and I shared it while the boys shared the 4-man tent. I'd say we "sniggled" in reference to Metro's attempt to define the word "sniggle" as when a black person/people snuggle, but we didn't actually sniggle or snuggle. We pretty much passed out. Anyways, an attempt was made to wander on the beach, however a muddy marsh divided us and the ocean and further exploration was hindered by the darkness. And the drunkeness.

Funny moment: there was practically a full moon and Domingo was complaining about how the moon wasn't bright enough. How much brighter can it be? I mean really? Anyways, Carl also took the liberty of re-making himself as the Mexican version of the bushman (you know, the dude that hides behind pieces of shrubbery on the Embarcadero, jumps out at you, scares the shit out of you, and then begs for change), which scared the piss out of Courtney, Mingo, and myself, haha.

Other funny observations: Blackness is incapable of totally shutting a car door, Randall is officially "Lemur" and no one calls him by his actual name, and that freaking Beyonce song, "All the Single Ladies," is abso-fucking-lutely contagious. We've remade it to: "If you liked it then you should've put a Lemur on it." OK, break now. We're setting up camp on the beach (GORGEOUS) and sipping Tecates. Grilled pollo for dinner, yum!

Baja Entry 1

1/12/09 9:00AM Village Fontana Hotel, Room 124

Necesito pagar por adelantado? (Do I need to pay upfront?)

I think this is officially Day 1 of the Mexico trip, because we're actually here, although nearly all of yesterday we spent together driving through California. I rode in Domingo's truck with Courtney and Domingo. Mike and Randall rode with Carl in his Porsche Cayenne. Domingo didn't actually drive his truck. Instead, Courtney drove about 2/3 and I drove a stretch too. Had some funny moments: 1) Domingo thinking he didn't have his passport circa Long Beach, 2) Mike dropping his iPhone outside a toll crossing in Mexico, which we returned to find flatter and much less functional, 3) Randall earning the nickname, "Lemur-boy," from Courtney and I (we all 3 shared a hotel room and I'm not sure why we came up with that...something to do with delirious giggling), 4) Courtney breaking out in hives from eating at some rando cantina in Ensenada.
Oh yes, forgot to mention, we're in Ensenada now. We arrived at 10:30PM or so and had decided to check in at a hotel. We were hungry and wandered around to find food and drink. I think we were all too tired to really go nuts, thankfully, and retired to our rooms early. Just recalled, we all have walkie talkies and there some ridiculousness ensued. At some point after we crossed the border, some interference came in with Spanish crackling through the radio. At first we were a bit confused, wondering if that was Carl fucking with us, but we realized it was someone else on the same channel. Then we heard Carl's voice as he distinctly proclaimed, "All your pussies stink!" Need to stop writing for now due to stupid, inane discussions occurring all around; mainly regarding Domingo's watch not being set to the correct time and the fact that he wore a watch for about 3 weeks (about a year? ago) and anytime Carl asked him for the time he'd respond, "Oh, it's not set." Ridiculousness. Luckily Blackness remedied that problem for Domingo this morning and set his watch for him. God Bless Blackness.